The litter was born April 01/ 2013 and there is currently available one female.

Aesthetically the puppies have nice conformation with large heads, nice bone density, and good pigmentation. The puppies all have strong nerves and are environmentally strong.

The puppies will be suited for Personal Protection Dogs or Elite Family Estate protection Dogs.

Please note: This is the first time the puppies were outside.

We are excited to announce that Cindy finally had her puppies. The pups were born April 01, 2013. The puppies are all BIG with nice heads and good pigmentation.

There are four male and four females available. These Belgian Malinois puppies will be suited for high-end KNPV or Elite Estate Family Protection Dogs.

We are very excited to start working them. We will be posting training videos on our CCK9 YouTube page.

P.S. The pups are only three days old in this video.

We are excited to announce that we have confirmed Cindy is pregnant.  Aesthetically her pups will have nice conformation with large heads, great bone density, and good pigmentation. The pups will also have a nice temperament, strong nerves, well-balanced and clearheaded.

Cindy is a KNPV line Belgian Malinois that we had bred in 2009. She was not only the only female but was also the pick of the litter. Aesthetically, beautiful body conformation, imposing dark pigmentation color, strong head and remarkably strong working ethics.

Watch a video of Cindy working in Protection.

Spanky, 2011 KNPV PH 1 Dutch National Champion Belgian Malinois import from Holland. Spanky earned his coveted KNPV PH1 degree in May of 2011 with  a perfect score of 440 points, which gave him a bye to go to the Dutch National Championship in September, where he came in 2nd with 435 points.

The puppies will be born April 2/2013.   The puppies will be suited for high end KNPV or Elite Estate Family protection Dogs. This litter will be whelped in an undisclosed isolated area with 24 hour surveillance camera. Reservations are highly recommended so please feel free to contact us right away.

Preparation is the most important step in introducing a new puppy into the home. The first impressions between your new pup, and your resident dog can mean the difference between a smooth transition or the start of a long series of headaches. Resident dogs being over-protective of the home or their belongings can be one of the biggest problems in introducing any new dog into the home. In order to avoid this, it is a good idea to introduce the dog to your new puppy in a neutral environment, such as a park. Be careful not to use a park where you frequently take your dog for walks, as it may feel territorial over this area as well. Be sure to have a second handler with you, as holding both leashes yourself will make the dogs feel forced upon each other. Do not hold the puppy during the initial meeting, as this may make it feel trapped. Let the dogs approach each other at their own pace. It is also extremely important to purchase separate food bowls and arrange separate sleeping areas in advance. Forcing your dogs to share food bowls or beds is simply asking for disaster.

When it comes time to bring the new puppy into the home, make sure you’ve prepared the space where they will meet for the smoothest possible introduction. Clean up the area so that the dogs do not feel anxious by excess clutter in the home. The area where they meet inside the home should not contain any food bowls or toys that the resident dog may feel protective over. It is also best to avoid putting the two in small or confined areas where they may feel trapped. Providing that the initial meeting in the park has gone well, you may walk both dogs into the home as if it were a regular routine. Let your resident dog off its lead first, and let the puppy explore the area while still on lead.

If, at any time, you notice signs of aggression, you should separate your dog and the new puppy immediately. Do not, under any circumstances, let your dogs fight. Be aware that your resident dog may show behavior similar to that of dogs in a parental role, such as nipping at the puppy’s neck. This is very different from aggressive behavior, and should be permitted.

Whether you have a new Belgian Malinois puppy, Dutch Shepherd puppy, or German Shepherd puppy, taking the proper precautions and ensuring a smooth introduction will help your new puppy and your resident dog from a positive relationship that will last for years to come.

As a general preventative measure, it is good to maintain a strict feeding schedule and build proper eating habits with your pup. Try to feed your puppy at consistent times from day to day, don’t feed it scraps from the table, always place the food in your pup’s dish, and remove the dish after 20 or 30 minutes have passed in order to help condition your puppy to eat at the proper times.

Assuming you’ve been maintaining a good schedule, and your puppy has been eating regularly, there are a number of reasons why your puppy may suddenly stop eating. One of the most common reasons is due to teething. Do what you can to reduce the discomfort from teething and ensure meals are eaten.

Unfortunately, other reasons your pup may stop eating could much more severe. Digestive illness, injury to the abdomen or parasites may all prevent your puppy from eating properly. As well, regardless of the cause, lack of food for extended periods of time can be fatal. Whether you have a German Shepherd puppy, Dutch Shepherd puppy, or Belgian Malinois puppy, you should always consult the expertise of your veterinarian if your puppy has gone more than 24 hours without eating, or shows any symptoms of illness.

Breeders put an incredible amount of time and effort into keeping their bloodlines strong and training their dogs to perform their absolute best. Whether they are training working dogs for police work, or sporting dogs for KNPV, it is important that training begins while the dogs are still puppies. A breeder must also determine the capabilities of his puppies very early on. While KNPV sporting dogs often produce very strong litters whose pups go on to be full-fledged police dogs or protection dogs, it is important to realise that the type of training they receive must be centered around the work they will be doing from the very beginning. Training a Belgian Malinois as a sporting dog will make it unsuitable for work as a true protection dog, even if it were to be cross-trained. It takes a huge amount of skill and expertise on the part of the breeder to ensure that their Belgian Malinois puppies are living up to their full potential and continuing to improve their bloodline.

If no problems occur, the puppies will be pushed out one by one. They will be contained within an amniotic sac which the mother will break open. She should then bite the umbilical cord in half, and start licking the puppy to help it breath.

The first problem that can occur is if the mother has trouble pushing the puppy out. The mother should not have to spend more than about 10-15 minutes per puppy. If a puppy gets stuck during birthing, it can endanger not only the life of that puppy, but that of the entire litter. If the mother spends too long pushing on a stuck puppy, you will have to help her before she exhausts herself and endangers the rest of the litter. Having some form of non-toxic lubricant on hand can help. Watered-down dish soup may suffice as a last resort. Pull on the puppy gently to help release it. If the mother exhausts herself before the rest of the pups are born, her contractions may stop. If this occurs, an emergency c-section will have to be performed by your veterinarian, or at an animal hospital.

After each puppy is born, the mother may not release the puppies, cut the umbilical cords, or lick the puppies to help them breath. If the mother fails to do any of these, it is up to you to them for her. Keep a disinfected pair of scissors nearby as well as some iodine. Releasing the puppies from their sacs should be fairly easy. However, cutting the umbilical cord requires more of a crushing cut than a clean cut in order to minimize the amount of bleeding. You should cut the cords about a half-inch from the puppy’s abdomen. You may have to tie off the ends using clean string. Dental floss works well for this. Finally, have clean towels nearby to dry off the pups and remove mucous from around nose and mouth. Try to encourage the mother to lick puppy by placing it in front of her, but be prepared to towel down the puppy yourself. If the puppy isn’t breathing, your will have to remove mucous from the puppy’s mouth yourself. Open the pup’s mouth and use a clean medicine dropper to suck out any mucous. Rubbing the puppy with the towel whilst cleaning it also helps to promote circulation.

Finally, you should keep track of the number of placenta after whelping. It is normal for the mother to eat the placenta, but you should not let her eat more than a couple, as it could upset her stomach. If the placenta does not come out along with the pup, you should remove it yourself to prevent it from interfering with the next pup.

Whether they are German Shepherd puppies, Belgian Malinois puppies or Dutch Shepherd puppies, the above steps can help to overcome the most common problems that occur during whelping. However, be on the lookout for large amounts of blood or green-black discharge before whelping. This could indicate a more serious problem that requires the attention of your veterinarian. Always have a phone near by for you to call your vet for advise, or in the case of an emergency.

It takes three things to make a good protection dog: first and foremost is genetics, second is environment, and third is training; in that order. You can be the best trainer in the world and put in the time, but if the genetics are not there you will not succeed in developing a good protection dog.

We at Command Control K9 have a policy that we will not breed any dog unless it has proven itself, and has completed at least our Elite Family Guard Dog program. To give you an example of what genetics is, this weekend I had a couple that came down to my kennel to do bite work with a female Belgian Malinois puppy that they had purchased from us, out of Cindy and Ducko’s litter, who was born March 20, 2009. Now knowing this pup, and knowing where she is in her training — she had not even taken a bite before, never mind seeing a French Ring bite suit — not only did she take a bite the first time, but she let go and transferred to the other leg when I thread her with it. Now this is Genetics.

Agility training is performed through the use of various obstacles set up in a course which the dog navigates with verbal instructions from the handler. The most common obstacles include pipes and tunnels, poles intended to be weaved around, A-Frame structures intended to be scaled and descended, elevated planks and boardwalks, see-saws intended to be traversed from one end to the other, and various hoops and jumps. As the dog advances in training, higher jumps and more complicated courses are introduced. It is often beneficial to re-arrange the course regularly in order to maintain an element of unfamiliarity.

Before engaging your dog in agility training, it is a good idea to review your dog’s health and physical capabilities. Breeds developed as working dogs, such as the German Shepherd, Dutch Shepherd or Belgian Malinois, are naturally very agile. However, all dogs doing agility-training should be pre-screened for health defects such as poor eye-sight or hip and elbow displaysia. Health problems affecting the joints and eyes can not only make agility training difficult, but can also make it dangerous.

While the bulk of exercises are designed for adult dogs, there are certain exercises, such as tunnels and low jumps, which can be performed by puppies. It is not a bad idea to start training early, but leave more intense jumping and weaving exercises to young adults who’s skeletons have fully developed. Obedience training should always precede agility. Often, a leash can become entangled or interfere with obstacles in a course, so training for off-leash control is essential. It also a good idea to condition your dog through basic exercise, such as swimming, in order to build muscle and cardiovascular endurance.

We at Command Control K9 don’t train our protection dogs using traditional agility training methods. Our course is comprised of barrels, ladders, skids, wooden planks, corrugated metal, glass, and plastic. We expose all of our German Shepherd puppies, Belgian Malinois puppies, and Dutch Shepherd puppies to our agility course at a very young age. In fact, we start them at 5 weeks of age. We feel that the most important time for a pup is between 5 to 8 weeks; this is more important then the next 6 months of the puppies’ life. At 5 weeks, the puppy is exposed to different environments and surfaces. The pups learn rear foot placement by practicing on an elevated four-inch plank. Rear foot placement is necessary for more advanced exercise such as climbing a ladder or scaling a wall. It is also helpful for getting a dog used to heights. It sounds extreme, but it’s necessary when, for example, a protection dog needs to be deployed up the wall to apprehend a suspect.

The concept is very simple; one would take an elevated table or box with two sides on it, with the front and back open and exposed. The dog is placed in the box with an over-head beam and a harness that is fastened to the dog, so that it does not slip off. It is important to use a very slippery surface; we use sheet metal. The decoy then approaches the dog from the front end. When done correctly, the dog has no choice but to use only his jaw power to bite. This is only effective if your protection dog has already developed their bite. This is very advanced work and should only be done with experienced trainers.